japanjournalЯпонские исследованияJapanese Studies in Russia2500-2872Association of Japanologists; Institute of China and Modern Asia of the Russian Academy of Sciences10.55105/2500-2872-2024-2-50-64japanjournal-486Research ArticleСтатьиГастрономия vs. гастро-аномия? Продовольственное пространство ЯпонииGastronomy vs gastro-anomie? Japan’s foodscapehttps://orcid.org/0000-0002-6493-5150МаловА. В.MalovА. V.

Малов Александр Вадимович, кандидат политических наук, доцент кафедры теоретической и прикладной политологии Факультета международных отношений, политологии и зарубежного регионоведения

125047, г. Москва, Миусская пл., д. 6

Malov Alexander V., Cand. Sci. (Political Science), Associate Professor, Department of Theoretical and Applied Political Science, the Faculty of International Relations and Foreign Area Studies

12504 Moscow, Miusskaya Sq., 6

malov.pvo@gmail.comhttps://orcid.org/0000-0002-8307-7606ЧугровС. В.ChugrovS. V.

Чугров Сергей Владиславович, доктор социологических наук, профессор кафедры социологии

119454, г. Москва, Проспект Вернадского, д. 76

Chugrov Sergei V., Dr. Sci. (Soc.), Professor, Department of Sociology

119454 Moscow, Prospect Vernadskogo, 76

Российский государственный гуманитарный университетРоссияInstitute of History and Archives, Russian State University for the HumanitiesRussian FederationМосковский государственный институт международных отношений (Университет) МИД РоссииРоссияMoscow State Institute of International Relations (University)Russian Federation202418102024035064Copyright © Малов А.В., Чугров С.В., 20242024Малов А.В., Чугров С.В.Malov А.V., Chugrov S.V.Данная работа распространяется под лицензией Creative Commons Attribution 4.0.This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.https://www.japanjournal.ru/jour/article/view/486

Статья посвящена сравнительно новому для российского академического сообщества понятию «продовольственного пространства». В теоретико-методологической части работы проводится реферативная деконструкция терминологической единицы, идентифицируются ее эпистемологические основы и определяются понятийные грани. Впервые в мировой науке, концепция

«продовольственного пространства», сопоставляется с родственными по смыслу семантическими комплексами, контурно согласующимися с идеей «кулинарного треугольника» К. Леви-Стросса. При помощи метода научной визуализации и компаративного анализа была сконструирована модель таксономической иерархии «продовольственного пространства», символизирующего собой симбиотическую связь природы и культуры, регистрирующуюся при помощи инновационной авторской классификации – на глобальном, национальном и локальном уровнях. Практическая часть статьи, в свою очередь, посвящена изучению процесса трансформации продовольственного пространства Японии, характеризующегося балансированием между гастрономией и «гастро-аномией». Воспользовавшись методом case study, авторский дуэт доказывает, что в унисон с интенсивным ввозом заграничных пищевых товаров, подорвавшим продовольственную самодостаточность государства, энергично импортировались и паттерны евро-американской цивилизации, которые модифицировали модель социального поведения, пищевые привычки и вековые кулинарные устои японского общества. В качестве эмпирических фактов анализируются успешные маркетинговые стратагемы крупных транснациональных корпораций, ориентированные на монетизацию культурно-бытовых обрядов, коммодификацию традиций и консьюмеризацию религиозных ритуалов. Вместе с тем, авторами раскрывается мощный протекционистский потенциал, традиционной для Страны восходящего солнца культуры питания – васёку. Устанавливается, что идейный модуль последней, пластично используется современным японским правительством, как для внутренней, так и для внешней политики государства. В частности, выступая институциональным фундаментом для профильного нормативно-правового акта (сёкуику кихон-хо), регламентирующего процедуру «ре-макдоналдизации» населения, факультативно представляется эффективным инструментом «мягкой гастрономической силы» и «гастродипломатии», созидающим очаровательный образ Японии на международной политической арене. В заключительной части статьи, диагностируется диалектический характер процесса «каваизации» продовольственного пространства Японии, характеризующийся кокетливым шармом инфантильности с мерклым оттиском радикального эскапизма.

The article focuses on the concept of foodscape, which is relatively new to the Russian academic community. In the theoretical and methodological part of the work, the authors deconstruct the term “foodscape,” identify the epistemological foundations and the conceptual roots of the concept. For the first time in world science, the concept of foodscape is compared with related semantic complexes in accordance with the theory of the “culinary triangle,” which was developed by C. Levi-Strauss. Using the method of scientific visualization and comparative analysis, a model of the taxonomic hierarchy of the foodscape is constructed, which symbolizes the symbiotic relationship between nature and culture, registered with the help of an innovative author’s classification – at the global, national, and local levels. The practical part of the article is devoted to the study of the transformation process of the foodscape of Japan, characterized by balancing between gastronomy and gastro-anomie. It is proved that, along with the import of foreign food products, which undermined the food self-sufficiency of the state, the patterns of the Euro-American civilization were imported, which modified the model of social behavior, ingrained eating habits, and age-old culinary foundations of Japanese society. As empirical evidence, the authors present and analyze successful marketing strategies of multinational corporations that focus on monetization of cultural and household rituals, commodification of traditions, and consumerization of ancient religious rituals. In addition, the authors reveal the powerful protectionist potential of the washoku as traditional food culture of Japan. It has been found that the washoku’s ideological module was flexibly converted by the modern Japanese government, both for domestic and foreign policy of the state. Nowadays, washoku is the institutional foundation for a specialized legislative act regulating the procedure of Re-McDonaldization of the population. Along with this, washoku is also an effective tool of soft gastronomic power and gastrodiplomacy, creating a charming image of Japan in the eye of the beholder (the international political community). In conclusion, the authors diagnose the dialectical nature of the process of Kawaii-fication of Japan’s foodscape, characterized by the charm of infantilism with a grain of salt – radical escapism and social maladjustment.

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The authors declare that there are no conflicts of interest present.